Everything you need to care for a bunny

Diet: unlimited timothy hay for all ages (alfalfa hay is fine up until 6 months), a measured scoop of pellets (we use Science Selective and Oxbow — alfalfa-based until 6 months, then slowly transitioned to adult timothy-based pellets), and fresh leafy greens once a day. Safe daily greens include romaine, green/red leaf lettuce, cilantro, parsley, and dandelion greens — about one or two large leaves, or 3–4 smaller leaves, plus a small handful of herbs.

Housing: bunny-proof the home and set up a free-roam space or large enclosure, a litter box with pine pellet litter, a hidey house, chew toys, and a quiet adjustment area before your rabbit comes home. Rabbits should always live indoors — outdoor housing exposes them to predators, extreme temperatures, and disease.

Daily checklist: morning feeding, fresh hay, fresh water, exercise/free-roam time, and a quick health check.

Weekly checklist: deep clean the litter box, wash bowls, replace toys as needed, brush your rabbit, and trim nails every few months (contact us anytime for help).

Change pellets gradually unless your veterinarian directs otherwise:

Stop the transition and contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian if your rabbit has reduced appetite, very small or fewer droppings, diarrhea, abdominal discomfort, or lethargy.

Watch for changes in poop (small, scant, or not formed) — this can signal a digestive problem. If your bunny stops eating for 24 hours, it's an emergency and they should see a vet quickly. Never withhold food before surgery; rabbits can't vomit and need their gut moving constantly, or they risk GI stasis.

Nasal discharge or sneezing can indicate a respiratory issue. Head tilting can indicate E. Cuniculi, which is best treated quickly.

If you notice any change in your bunny, watch closely and act quickly — better outcomes come from early vet visits.

Rabbits need a rabbit-savvy exotics veterinarian, not a standard dog-and-cat vet — regular vets often aren't trained to treat rabbits safely. Spaying or neutering prevents reproductive cancers, reduces aggression and territorial marking, and is required for all rabbits adopted through our rescue.

Local rabbit-savvy vets we recommend: Mountain Empire, Hunter Veterinary, Deer Park Veterinary, and Pet Vet. Contact us for more suggestions.

Emergency care: WSU Veterinary Teaching Hospital in Pullman, WA is the only nights and weekend exotic pet emergency care in the area.

Food & hay

Litter box

Grooming & handling

Health & preparedness

Every bunny's adjustment to their new home takes time. Patience, love, and understanding will help them thrive.

How long do rabbits live?

Well cared for house rabbits typically live 8–12 years, which is a longer commitment than many people expect.

Are rabbits good pets for kids?

Rabbits are better suited to calm, gentle handling than to being picked up and carried, so they're often best for families with older children under adult supervision.

Can rabbits live with cats or dogs?

Many rabbits coexist peacefully with calm, well-trained cats and dogs, but introductions should always be slow, supervised, and never left to chance.

Do rabbits need to be spayed or neutered?

Yes. It's required for every rabbit adopted through our rescue, and it prevents reproductive cancers, reduces aggression and marking, and makes bonding with another rabbit much easier.

Can rabbits be litter trained?

Most rabbits can be litter trained fairly easily, especially once spayed or neutered. Keep a box in their favorite corner and be patient during the first few weeks.

What should I do if my rabbit stops eating?

Treat it as an emergency. Rabbits can't vomit and rely on their gut moving constantly, so a loss of appetite for 24 hours needs a rabbit-savvy vet right away.

Can I adopt a bonded pair?

Yes, and it's often the easiest way to bring rabbits home since the bonding work is already done. Check each bunny's profile or ask us which ones are currently bonded.